1kg of carrot, 1kg of sugar, 1litre of water, 0.5tsp of vanillin
Clear yellow carrot and chop straws (small cubes, circles, asterisks);
Put in a basin for jam, fill in with water, and deliver on fire;
Boil, removing foam;
When carrot becomes soft, strew sugar;
Continue to cook on slow fire until carrot does not become transparent;
Add vanillin in the end of cooking for aroma.


500g of cleared kernels of a walnut, 500g of raisins, 50g of breading, 15-20 drops of any fruit essence, 1tbsp of powdered sugar.
                Slightly roast the cleared kernels of walnut;
Place on a baking tray and put the tray in an oven;
As soon as the oily smell will start to emit, remove and quickly cool on a wind (air);
Clear raisins of rubbish, delete fruit stems;
Wash out with cold water and pass through a meat grinder together with walnut kernels;
Add a breading, fruit essence in the mix;
Properly mix and make balls in size about a walnut, serve on a fruit vase, strew powdered sugar.
        In folk medicine it is recommended as a mean for an anemia.


1kg of quince, 300g of walnut kernels, 200g of sugar.
-   Clear the down of ripe quince fruits,
-   Take out core together with seeds,
-   Dip into cold water,
-   Rinse out walnut kernels in cold water,
-   Pass it through a meat grinder,
-   Mix having added sugar,
-   Fill with this stuffing the prepared fruits of a quince,
-   Place on storeys of a steam pan and boil it within 30-35 minutes on steam.
        “Behi do’lma” is served up with tea.
        In folk medicine it is recommended as a mean from cold diseases.

The structural, high-fertile soil is necessary for cultivation of sprouts and vegetables in hotbeds. 0.25-0.3m2 of such mix is required for one hotbed. The soil is mixed from:

Sod soil,
Humus soil,
Leaf soil,
Good garden soil,
Grey or white coarse-grained sand;
The best is the sod soil. For preparation of sod soil, the sod cover is cut off in the thickness 10-12sm.  Layers of sod are put in stack in layer-by-layer: a grass to a grass. Through each two layers of sod it is recommended to stack manure layer 10-15sm. It is necessary to water dry sod or, that is better, to pour with a dung-water solution. At preparation of sod in the early spring the sod soil will be ready in a year. Within summer the stack two-three times is excavated.
The humus soil is got at decomposition of organic substance in hotbeds or in compost heaps. At compost preparation the vegetative trash, manure, other organic materials are put in a stack where they rot through. The soil rich with nutrients is as a result formed. The humus soil can be getting in one-two year at two-three times shoveling of a stack within summer.
For preparation of the leaf soil the leaves collected in the autumn are stacked in heaps in a shady place. Within summer the heap some times are watered and shoveled. Leaves are rotted through in two years, forming the easy soil. It is good admixture to the dense sod soil.

     Biofuel gives heat as a result of vital functions of the bacteria, which decomposes organic substance. Good biofuel should be friable, contain enough of nitrogenous substances and 65-70 % of moisture. In such nutrient medium of a bacterium quickly breed, and in biofuel the heat is settled.
The best biofuel is horse manure. It contains a considerable quantity of nitrogen, has normal humidity, and is quickly warmed up - in 7-10 days after stuffing of hotbeds the temperature reaches 70°C.
The cow manure contains superfluous quantity of moisture, is warmed up more slowly. After a warming up of manure the temperature, as a rule, does not exceed 40°C. Thermal properties of the cow manure improve by addition of dry leaves and sawdust.
The sheep and goat manure contains many nitrogenous substances, but it demands of humidifying. For the best burning the cow and sheep manure mix with horse manure (60 % of horse manure and 40 % of cow or 30 % of horse, 40 % of cow and 30 % of sheep manure).
The organic waste also is considered one of the best kinds of biofuel with normal density and humidity, the temperature in it exceeds 65 ° and long it keeps. If the waste very humid, dry materials are added. Dry waste is humidified or mixed with the cow manure.
Heat of the sun (or heat of vaporization) is used along with biological fuel for heating hotbeds.

What can protect plants from cold except film?

For protecting plants from cold may be used different covers - mats, paper caps, etc.
Good plant protection caps are made of translucent waterproof paper. Paper caps are doing as:
paper is cut into squares with sides equal to 50cm, angles are cut little, then fold the paper so as to form eight segments extending from the center of the square. Then two any segments are folded together and added to the third. For the strength of folded paper can fasten with pin. But cap keeps its shape pretty good without this).
In order caps not to carry away by the wind, their edges are covered with soil.   
Cucumber, tomato, eggplant, pepper plants are covered with paper caps after planting in open ground. If weather is warm, should not to do it.

To protect plants also can be used pottery or other pots without a bottom. The diameter of the pot 16-17cm. Square-shaped pieces of glass, cut from broken glass are used to secure the top of pottery.
To protect plants at night, you can use put together from boards gutter.  The using the boxes and other devices are recommended also for protecting plants.


        For dough: 500g flour, 1 egg, 1 tsp salt, 0.5 glasses of water.

For forcemeat: 500g meat (pulp), 400g onions, on 1 tsp of salt and black ground pepper, 1kg oils for deep-fat fryer.

        Pour egg in a pot, add water and salt. Good mix, that there were no lumps. Pouring parts a flour, knead dough. Roll in a sphere, cover with a napkin and set aside for 10-15 minutes. Then by means of long thin rolling pin unroll sheet with the thickness in 2mm. Cut small squares in the size 4 X 4 cm.

Forcemeat preparation: pass meat through a meat grinder. Chop onions to thin rings, connect to meat, add salt and pepper. Put on fire the pot with a spherical bottom, warm up approximately to 100oC. Fry dumplings forcemeat constantly stirring slowly with skimmer, before juice discharge. Close a cover and to cool forcemeat in the same pot to room temperature.

On each piece of dough put 1 tsp forcemeat. Form pelmeni, fry in a hot deep-fat fryer.

        At serving fried dumplings put on a fruit vase, strew with powdered sugar.


See also

Protected field (soil management). Cool season vegetables

Synthetic film allows accelerating plants fruiting and significantly increasing the yields of early vegetables. at first, film can cover:
-     sorrel,
-     rhubarb,
-     fennel,
-     parsley,
-     celery,
-     coriander;
then it can be transferred to cover plants of:
-     radish,
-     lettuce,
-     green onion,
-     plants of cucumber and tomato seedlings that were grown in the home.
Cucumber plants under film shelters begin to fruiting for 10-15 days earlier and with good care can give twice or three times more crops.
For vegetables most commonly polyethylene film is used. It best meets the requirements of plants and is not too expensive.
Polyethylene film from high temperature expands, and from low temperature shrinks, that must be considered at pulling it on the frames.
Frames can be made in the form of arcs from rods or wire. The arcs are stuck in the ground a meter from one another. In order the film does not sag and does not touch the plants, the arcs are connected with strings.
After film removing, care of plants is usual.


For seeds should be left on cucumber plant not more than two or three cucumbers which:
-     the early  fruit inception;
-     has а regular form;
-     has a proper size;
-     has other signs, characteristic for the given cucumber breed.
The remaining cucumbers, flowers and ovaries are removed.
Selected seed-bearing plants are marked, and the cucumbers are left on bines until the autumn frosts. Within summer it is necessary:
-     to weed out the weeds;
-     to loosen soil;
-     to pin bines to the ground;
-     to water the plants;
-     to fertilize right after selecting the seed-bearing plants through two or three weeks (3 tbsp of superphosphate and 6 tbsp of oven ashes in a bucket of water).
Before the onset of frost:
-     seed-bearing cucumbers should be relocated in a warm and well ventilated room;
-     when the cucumbers will be dark yellow, will become soft, contents are took in a bowl with water and left few days to fermentation, changing the water every other day;
-     once the mass is strongly begun to foam, cucumber seeds are laid on a sieve;
-     the seeds are thoroughly washed with running water;
-     the seeds are laid on the canvas and put under the sun. During drying, cucumber seeds should be mixed constantly;
-     finally cucumber seeds are dried at the stove.
-     the seeds are stored in a dry place.
From 10kg of cucumbers can be obtained 120-150g  seeds.

See also


During growth and development of tomato plant is labeled with colored ribbon or sticks those plants, which fruiting abundantly, giving the tomatoes of high commercial-quality, characterized by resistance to diseases, ripening, and heat resistance. From them is taking away the largest and most ripened tomatoes from the second and subsequent picking. The tomatoes of the first picking are often ugly, with the week seeds. The most productive and precocious progeny produce seeds obtained from the tomato of the second and third pickings. 
          Quite ripe tomatoes are cut across and tomato seeds are selected. Selected tomato seeds with pulp and juice are left to ferment for two to three days. This fermentation is one of the preventive measures against diseases transmitted from seed. Then the juice is drained together with the pulp. Seeds fallen on the bottom are washed with water and thoroughly dried in the air, scattering them in a thin layer of plywood sheets or burlap stretched over a frame. One kg of fruit yields 3-4g of tomato seeds. 


A tuber of potato and two-three seeds of peas are put in one pit (furrow) at joint cultivating of potato and peas. The greatest crop is got on plots with friable fertile soil (mineral and organic fertilizers well introduced). Even in the absence of fertilizers such combination of cultures will not cause a strong exhaustion of soil on a plot. Peas itself enrich soil with nitrogen, thanking to root nodule bacterium which settle on its roots and acquire nitrogen from air. It is necessary to "infect" seeds of peas or a plot with the root nodule bacterium. For this purpose handful of the soil, taken from a field where peas grew, is put in every pit, or seeds are processed with the Nitragin preparation. One bottle of this preparation is enough to process seeds for 1hectare.

See also


Untimely having watered or its absence leads to a suspension of growth of potato tubers. After watering or rains growth of potato tubers renews. Such non - uniform growth also causes ugliness of potato tubers. To avoid it, actions are carried out:

- The plot is processed deeply,
- Organic fertilizers are introduced,
- The soil structure is improved,
- Plants in due time is watered for the purpose of moisture keeping.

See also


One of the major conditions defining successful cultivation of a potato at planting of fresh potato tubers, earlier spring planting is.
       Sprouting. Before planting fresh potato tubers are sprouted (by the way, potatoes sprouting ok to eat) or 10-15 days dried-cure, then cut on two-three parts, put a cut downwards on ridges, cover with straw and daily water. It is possible to use early potatoes (“Priekulskiy early”) and middle early potatoes (“Zarafshan”) which tubers have a not deep dormant period.
Tubers are planted in the end of July. During the period from planting to full shoots, humidity of soil should be raised. In the rest care of plants the usual.

See also


Earthing up potatoes causes formation considerable quantity of root runners.  Root runners are underground stalks on which new potato tubers develop. Along with it at Earthing up the soil crust collapses, the air flow to roots amplifies.
It is necessary to mean, that earthing up only then will benefit, when the soil is damp (after watering or a rain). Otherwise this procedure does to potato plants harm. To condense soil at earthing up does not follow.

See also